Finale

 Well that's it - I'm back now in the UK and already thinking about the NEXT one! This is a selection of pics I took along the way - and if they make you think "Wouldn't it be good to do something like that - but ...." I hope you'll forget the 'but' and just DO it! You wont regret it

Rain, rain,rain! - but every cloud ....

Spoke too soon. By the time we reached Reidlingen it was hammering down. It cleared up a bit in the evening but overnight, and off and on the next day it rained heavily. Coupled with that we arrived at two consecutive 'campsites' only to find them closed. In the end we wild camped beside a lake a few km outside a little town called Rottenacker. Despite the rain we had a lovely night at a restaurant in the town. Today day we decided to take the detour route to Blaubeuren and have a night in a B&B to dry out. So that is where this entry is coming. The town is absolutely gorgeous - all original timber frames - but the most remarkable thing is the 'Blautopf' - a massive upwelling spring coming from a hugely deep blue pool. Below it leads into an enormous cave system (supposed to be THE place for cave divers from all over the world) Nearby in some limestone caves, occupied from prehistoric times, they have the 'Earth Mother goddess figure - - breasts, big pregnant belly and bum - no head and just top part of the legs. Apparently it is the first one of its kind ever discovered, although others have now been found nearby. Over the past few days I've made up my mind - and I think Di has too. Even though she's going to carry on to Istanbul, and I have to go back to meet Sam, we are going to get back together after out trips. Tomorrow is going to be a difficult day - saying goodbye in Ulm. Post Script We carried on (in the rain still) to Ulm, but couldn't bear going our separate ways and had another night together in the town and a little B&B just off the square. Next day we set off in opposite directions - Di eastwards to Dillingen, and I went back down to a campsite marked in Erbach. Saying goodbye was awful. I discovered Erbach to have to yet another closed campsite - so I caught the train to Dillingen! There was still had best part of a week to wait before 'D-Day' so we headed down past Donauworth, then up a side valley on the Altmuhl Radweg for a few extra days. Finally the time came when we couldn't put it off any longer. At Eichstadt, Di cycled off on her way, and I took the train back to Dillingen to pass the last four days before the others arrived. Believe it or not, the weather finally changed! I'm really glad that the forecast now is for real 'summer weather' while Doz, J&J are here. I hope they enjoy it - but it's going to be a difficult time. PPS Dillingen Hospital is really good - they stopped the rather spectacular arterial bleeding quite quickly, and once the stitches were in I was as right as rain. Must make a note - never try whittling pieces of wood with a pen-knife when you are bored! Still got another 9 working fingers - but this one is still recovering!
Well - that's it! This blog is over. There are too many to mention, but thanks to everyone who have read my account of my journey, encouraged me, helped me, to the people of Germany who have been so unreservedly friendly, and to all the really wonderful people I have met along the way - especially Di.

Donautal ... at last!

I'd had enough languishing in Donaueshingen after three days doing nothing. Sitting by my tent I noticed another cycle tourist roll up - a Kiwi called Diane, who's on her way from London to Istanbul. We compared notes and later on,went to the bar together in the evening. We got on really well and finished up chatting til late and we decided to set off down the Donau, travelling together for a while. So that's what we're doing. I'm bloody glad I did. The Donautal is a spectacularly beautiful limestone walled gorge - unbelievably gorgeous scenery with no road - just the cycle track ... by far the best couple of days I've had on the whole trip and it's made it so much better having someone to share it with. It would have been a shame to wait in D/eshingen and not spend as much time here. Today we're in Sigmaringen - it's got a castle/stately home on the hill over the town ... on the same sort of scale as Chatsworth House. We went on the guided tour instead of just wandering round (reminded me of Budapest and Jeff's tour!) It was well worth it. On the way here we stopped off at lunchtime at a 'surprise' Beer Fest going on in a huge marquee in the woods in the middle of nowhere. At the interval we got chatting to the horn player in the 'um-pah' band and he's invited us over to his house in Sigmaringendorf (a nearby village) for something to eat and a few beers. Had a great night - tomorrow we're heading on to the next place - think its called Riedlingen. There's supposed to be another 'Royal Palace' there too ... but when you've seen one ...
It's not too long now before Doz, John and Julie come and I'm starting to have doubts about what the state of things will be by that time. This time with Di is great. It was hot and sunny again today ... let's hope the weather stays like this for the rest of the trip.

"Beautiful" Women and Real Dogs

I was in Freiburg a couple of days ago - another one of those "twee" places ... but living there must be like living in a gold-fish bowl. The place was full of touristst like me - all snapping away. It reminded me of Bowness - another "beautiful" little town. I was in a cafe sitting at a table in the sunshine, when a smart open-topped car pulled up and disgorged a fat little guy my age and his 35 year old "beautiful wife?". They sat for maybe an hour - didn`t speak much. Just when I was pondering what her upkeep must be, and thinking - I think tigers are beautiful ... but when they`re caught, stuffed and stuck on show in a trophy cabinet, you just start to feel sorry for them ... a real dog came up and sat at the table next to me. She was a bit overweight, with a flat sort of face and plenty of wrinkles - but she was friendly and in her own way beautiful. I asked if I could take her photo ... and her owners said "Of course" , when I explained I had friends with an Old English Bulldog too! ... it`s all in the eye of the beholder!

Somehow ... it's just not like home!

I've been here quite a while now and visited a good few pubs and bars ... but it's not the same as back home. In some places I've been greeted by a pair of sparkling eyes ... but not quite like those in the Oringal - in others I've been welcomed by a disarming smile ... but somehow it's missing something ... it's different to walking into the bar back at home. In fact it's true to say that in all my travels I haven't been served by anyone quite like .... Eileen!

France was closed! ... so it was Germany all the way

I carried on South from Philippsberg, again through beautiful countryside on little tracks and lots of off-road sections to Plittersdorf. It was another brilliant day, with the sun shining and I was glad to get the tent up and into the shade (under an umbrella outside a bar of course!) The campsite was a bit of a rip off though 14.50Euros NOT including showers. The next day down to Kehl was a bit boring, with a few sections through more built up areas. On the campsite there, I was camped next to a really nice family from Nurnberg. They have invited me to visit them for a couple of days, and if it fits in with trains and things, I may well take them up on their offer.
After Kehl, for the next 2 days the plan was to do a nice leisurely 35km to a little ferry across to Rhinau, a town on the French side with a campsite, then cross back in the morning for another leisurely 45km to Breisach. It all went so well ... had a lie in, took my time setting off ... tootled along at a snails pace and caught the ferry mid afternoon, looking forward to a dossy day and a few beers ... only to find France was closed! (some kind of Public Holiday) Not a soul was stirring (and didn't look likely to any time soon) ... so I didn't have any option than to go back to Germany and carry on to Breisach. The literal translation of the word "Breisach" is "I'm completely knackered!"
Anyway I'm back in Freiburg today to buy a Radweg book for the last leg down the Danube to Ulm - tomorrow its the train up to Donaueschingen and a few days break in the campsite there to get everything washed.

The last few days

Plan X never got off the ground when I found out it would involve 190Euros just in train fares. Believe it or not, I'm back to Plan C .... but its actually Plan C ++
From Gundelsheim, I took another couple of days to complete the descent of the Neckar past Heidelberg and down to Mannheim, where it joins the Rhine. My cunning plan is to go down the Rhine again ... but this time on the German side, instead of the French. So far it is turning out to be a GOOD plan. Today has been one of the best yet. The countryside leaving Mannheim is stunning, the weather has been gorgeous and there are plenty of campsites to choose from towards the end of the day. Tonight I'm heading for Philipsburg.
The other good thing about today is that I passed the 2000km mark at a little place called Altrip, just North of Speyer ... which is where this blog is coming from.

Special Edition ... some thoughts on German Beer ...

It appears there are five general types of German beer - each suited to a different kind of drinker so ...
1. `"HELL" ... appropriately named ... we're talking serious stuff here - enought to test the mettle of a seasoned Stella drinker like Dave. This can suck the moisture from your brain simply by raising the glass to your lips ...
2. `"WEISSBIER" ... this tastes awful and is cloudy. A couple of pints of this would do Steph good ... he'd never complain about the Bank Top again.
3.`"HALBWEISSBIER" ... pretty much the same as Weissbier
4.`"PILSNER" ... this is your regular evening scoop ... pretty much standard fare and suitable for most palettes ... although Ian would complain it's too cold
5. `"SCHWARTZBIER" ... Now there's not many occasions when you have to take your hat off and admit to agreeing with Mossy ... but this is one. Scwartzbier is the closest they do to "mild" (except it`s still 5%) ... it tastes more like real beer than the rest ... and if it's on the menu I generally pick it.
So there it is ... my guide to German Beers

17p rer Kilometer !!!

From Tubugen to Gundelsheim there's a 200km stretch of the Neckar with only one campsite - and that is in Stuttgart (half way). The alternatives were to split the route into 4 fifty km days but that meant three B and B's. ..... now I know I'm tight, but I wasn't going to run to that! ... so I did the 100km to Stuttgart in one, and prepared to take a day off to recover.
Stuttgart!! ... it would be better called Mercedesville. It seem to be built on the 'American' model ... massive boulevards, sliproads, underpasses and so on. The campsite (11Euros) was bounded on two sides by motorways and a railway on the third. It was so idyllic I immediately forgot the idea of a rest day ... in fact with the traffic noise I didn't get much rest that night either. Next day I set of to a Youth Hostel about 40km away but it was fully booked and I eventually found a cheap BandB in a place called Besigheim. (30Euros)
At least the countryside is back to its scenic best and the weather has picked up so I'm doing the last section to Gundelsheim today to the haven of it's campsite. ....
and so to the matter of 17p/ km ... I've worked out that by doing all those bloody miles in two days, thats all the saving I've made!

Legs of steel!

... what I would give for a pair! What did I say in the last entry about counting chickens ... In it's first 100km* the Neckar winds it's way through wooded hills between spurs .... and all the towns are built on the top of the spurs overlooking the river. They're all the same - steep 'up' into the town centre .... then steeper 'down' to get back to the river. Yesterday I arrived in a town called Horb and asked for directions to the campsite. It was like asking in the Oringal, only to find the campsite was at the top of Foxholes. The nett result was that on the way up I thought both my legs were going to drop off ... and on the way down this morning, both my brakes (already worn after the first 5 weeks) gave up the ghost, along with my front tyre.
If Carlsberg did bike shops, they'd do the one in Seltz!! I limped there and bought the parts (and a new gear cable too). The man in the shop not only let me use his workshop to change the parts, he gave me all the materials to give the bike a full service and a good clean too ... and a brew after I'd been working for an hour!
The other memorable (at least for me) thing about yesterday was I passed the 1600km mark (1000 miles). In another 4 - 5 days I'll be back in Heidelberg - and hope to unveil Plan X! It' going to be my final plan although I am keeping 'Y' and 'Z' back for emergencies.

A considerable amount of 'up' ! ... but on Sunday ...

Am I glad I took the train here to Donaueschingen. On the way up the mountain it at last stopped raining ... instead it turned to snow! At times it looked like a Christmas Card scene as the track wound its way up through the forest - very picturesque but I'm bloody glad I wasn't out in it on my bike. As it turned out, here on the 'other side' of the hill in Donaueschingen it was still coming down as rain. After a wet few km I found the campsite and got nicely sorted. Its got free hot water, there's a launderette and a cheap bar/restaurant. The forecast is for sun on Sunday so I've booked in for two nights to get everything washed and clean before I set off down the Neckar. (Because I'd had to take the tent down yesterday morning in the pouring rain, I had to use my dirty clothes last night as a mop to get the floor of the tent dry before I could roll out my Thermarest and sleeping bag!)
I've got the Radweg book (cycle guide) for the Neckar and it's all downhill from now on. The first couple of days in particular ought to see me covering a decent distance ... but you know what they say about counting chickens!

More ups and downs .... and a few words about kit

Got to the bottom of my mysterious 'puncture' yesterday, when I got up to find my other tyre was down too ... seems some jolly prankster thinks it's a real hoot to let them down! My early start from Strasbourg was delayed whilst I got them pumped up. Anyway, I finally got going - the sun came out and I covered the first 40km by lunch-time. Then came the next 35km along the now customary 'unspoilt' off-road section, just as the clouds rolled in and it started to rain ... then thunder ... then I got a genuine puncture. It meant taking all my panniers off to mend it. A wet half hour later I was thankfully back on the road ... for at least another kilometer before the next genuine puncture! While I mended this one I put poly bags over my feet to stop my shoes from getting waterlogged. Still looking stylish with my two ASDA bags I finally arrived at a little village with a campsite and a pub. It was a toss up which came first but you can guess. A couple of beers later the rain stopped and I got the tent up.
Next day I went into a town with a bike shop and bought a couple new spare inner tubes, a kevlar reinforced 'puncture-proof' outer and my new pride and joy ... a pair of waterproof over shoes cos by now my ASDA bags wetre worn through! Suitably attired I set off on the short 35km to Freiburg. It was short ... but all uphill - I'm now higher than quite a few of the Wainwrights in the Lakes. Looking at the hills beyond I've decided to chicken out on the next 30km up to Donauschingen and take the 3/4 hour train ride instead!

Now regarding Kit. Obviously fist is the bike. Its doing really well, still nice 'n smooth gear changes, and considering I've done 1500 heavily laden kilometers, the tyres have stood up remarkably well. Next ...the tent. Again, I'm really happy with it ... solid and nice and waterproof (and I'm a lot faster getting it pitched now there's been a few rainy days to 'encourage' haste!).
As far as other things I've brought, Jeffs Thermarest has been a lifesaver and Doz has been inspirational in the 'little' suggestions such as the roll of gardening poly-bags, the little handlebar pannier she bought me, the tiny bungee cord and loads of other thranklements. Above all though ... in the middle of the night, in the pouring rain, after a few scoops, my greatest acquisition has to be my collapsable plastic 'p***'-bucket.

Life's little ups and downs ... Update

Booked into a really good hostel ... more like a hotel really. Private bathroom and shower and breakfast thrown in ... and it has a laundry ... and all for 19.50Euros. The weather has bucked up too, so I think I'll stop here tomorrow too and have a good look round. I'm showered, in a nice change of clothes, just about to go out into town to find a place to eat ... and alls well with the world!

Life's little ups and downs!

Well I can't say I've altogether enjoyed the last two days! It has rained constantly day and night. The 'unspoilt' 30km cyclepath through beautiful woodland' turned out to be just what it said on the tin .... in fact so unspoilt there wasn't a single cafe, shed, shack, barn or hut to shelter in; wet through, with numb fingers I was forced to amputate several toes that had died of frostbite. At last I reached a small bar and went in to dry off before the next section ;;; guess what .... another 17km of unspoilt ... etc etc ... By the time I got to Gambsheim, the first proper town I'd seen all day all I wanted was to get my tent up in the campsite, get a hot shower and wash my wet things in the lauderette ... but the site was closed. I wild camped again but the saving grace was a restaurant in the town. I found a table next to a radiator, and despite several odd looks from other diners, I sat, determined but moist and steamed. I dried off whilst sampling one of the regions delicacies .... faux grille avec sauce moutard .... or as we say in England ... Grilled horse steak with mustard sauce. It was actually delicious (but then again you all know the story about the rat-curry!)
I've got to Strasbourg today. Thankfully it has held off rain for most of the morning. I'm off to the tourist info when I've finished this entry to find a room for the night.

Bonjour aux touts mes amis en Angleterre. Ce soir je suis en France a Seltz, aber Morgen Ich werde wieder in Deutschland fahren. The Rhine forms the border now for miles, so I'll be constantly bobbing between the two countries ... as if being crap at eine language isn't enough - now I get chance to be crap at deux - and alles in the meme day!
Plan C is going well though .... I've covered a lot of ground over the past two days since leaving Heidelberg, and I've reached Seltz tonight just across the river in France, on the way to Strasbourg. I've been helped by a really strong (but also bitterly cold) North wind. Last night I couldn't find a campsite that was open so had to manage with a 'wild camp' beside a lake outside a town called Sondernheim. About 1km away though there was a really friendly bar/restaurant so I kept out of the wind in there all evening - also tried a new menu item ... Zander fillets (some sort of river fish ... really good. Alors, c'est tout pour le moment .... a bientot
Johann

Back to civilization ... and Plan C!!

Had a very interesting few days just flirting with the edge of the Black Forest ... so I suppose it only counts as being the 'Dark Grey Forest' really. On the way from the Rhine I passed some amazing wetland areas ... saw a pair of grebes, coots, moorhens, swans, loads of geese herons, some sort of egret, storks and a big bird of prey (eagle or buzzard of some kind). I was able to get as close as Bolton going down, before it spread its wings and flew off. In the forest the only thing I saw were little birds I cant recognise, another one of the big bird of prey jobbies ... and a deer that jumped out onto the track, stopped and looked at me as if to say 'what the hell are you looking at' then jumped off.
Now, I've eventually emerged and made my way to Heidelberg, and booked into a hostel bunk room (so you'll probably never hear from me again!)
And so to unveil "Plan C". I've decided to go back to the Rhine and follow it all the way down to Basel in Switzerland ... then make my way back up to the source of the Nekkar and follow it back down to Esslingen in a nice big loop. It should take quite a few weeks altogether. Then, depending on the time I can either follow the river Fils to Ulm direct, or get the train to Donnaushingen and do the first 200km of the Danube down to Ulm ... simples !!
The weather has been pretty poor the last couple of days with some heavy rain. Went to see Worms which is supposed to be beautiful ... wasn't impressed though ... and it poured down on the way back!

Off into the wilds of the Black Forest

In the words (almost) of Captain Oats .... "I'm just going off into the Black Forest .... I may be some time. After today I'm hoping to do a few days going around small towns and villages in the forest betweem Mainz and Heidelberg (Steph will remember the eagle we saw when we went in the area) I's all off the main cycle route and I doubt if I'll be able to find any of these internet cafes .... so I'll probably be 'off radar' for a few days. The weather is still really hot and sunny, but the forecast is for rain in the next day or two. Hope it doesn't was away my tan ... coz at the moment I am, quite simply, a Sun-bronzed Adonis !!

A few notes on cleanliness

Well it's been almost three weeks on the road now, and obviously cleanliness is an important issue. Without even noticing grime, can build up in those 'difficult-to reach' areas and (without going into graphic detail) you can imagine the damage a bit of 'rubbing' can cause to more delicate areas ... consequently, today I gave my bike a thorough wash and clean and re-lubed the chain and gears!!
At the moment I'm in a place called St Goar on the Rhine, right across from the Lorelei Rock .. where a beautiful blonde river nymph is supposed to sing, and lure unsuspecting sailors to their doom. I was in the pub last night watching Bayern v Lyon so I must have missed her performance, cos it was all quiet when I went back to my tent!

Attacked in the night !

Everything was going so well until last night. There I was ... all tucked up in my sleeping bag, fast asleep when next thing .... there's goings on in my awning! Armed with my torch and spare tent pole I made an angry snarl (in as deep a voice as I could manage) and undid the zip ... Disaster ... A sodding fox had got in. Before I could blink, the little bugger only did a runner with all my sausages!! (That guy who cycled down the Americas didn't have to put up with that did he?!) As you can imagine, knowing how much I like my sausages, at the moment I'm feeling distraught and violated!!

Back to the Rhine

After another day down the Moselle, I decided I'd seen (and spent) enough. It's all about 20% dearer than back on the Rhine. So today I've had a BIG day and cycled all the way back to Koblenz ...about 85km. It's been very hot again but I think that it might turn thundery. That's another reason for puttig in a few extra miles today ... at least the tent is up and I intend having the day off tomorrow whether it rains or not! Not much else to say .... cos today I've been going back over old ground ... just on the opposite side of the river than on the way down. Apparently the Morris Men have been out and about today ... hope they saved some beer for the locals !
Off for a couple of beers myself right now ... I'm ready for it after today!

Down the Moselle

We are talking a different scale of 'tweeness' altogether here ... the Moselle is the Rhine's chic little sister ... it's Lisa to the Rhine's Bart! There's obviously a lot of 'Old Money' here too ... sort of place where the Millers and Kellys would fit right in! - except only the poor people drive BMWs the rich of course, drive Mercs ... and the really rich old Counts (got the spelling right) who live in the castles overlooking each town get their manservants to drive them.

I'm about 125km down the river now heading South. I'll probably go as far as a place called Trier on the border with Luxembourg and then head back to Koblenz and pick up the Rhine again.

PLAN B
Decided rather than hang around in Koblenz, then other places along the Rhine/Danube, waiting for Christmas (and Doz, John and Julie), I'm going to set off maybe tomorrow up the Moselle towards Luxembourg. It's an extra couple of hundred km but at least I'll be on the move again. I ought to get back on the original route by mid May which still gives me enought time to get to Ulm.
There was this odd greyish thing in the sky today - not seen one since I left the UK! Then it started raining for an hour or so. The forecast says it's only for today, then back to sunshine, in fact it has cleared up already. The wind has dropped right off too so it should be a nice few days on the Moselle ... apparently they do a nice brand of wine there too- it's going to be hard work forcing myself off the beer, but I suppose I'll just have to grit my teeth.
Well I've got to dash - there's a pub/restaurant around the corner that has a 'Happy Hour' on drink AND food - everything half price .... so I'm treating myself to 12oz rump with all the trimmings for 7.75Euros ... it has to beat the cheese and ham pasta I cooked for myself last night !

Remagen!! narrow streets ... lots of bars ... lots of tourists ... and obviously - lots of thieving bastards. Had my camera nicked. Not so bothered about the camera - its all my pics from Holland etc. I'm further down the Rhine now in Koblenz and found a second hand shop to get a fresh one cheap. I've decided to have a few days here - the campsite is just across the river from the 'Old' Town - free hot water got its own little bar and restaurant and 8.50Euros a night. I hope you're all managing to read these 'updates' without nodding off through boredom! I know Steve will be waiting for the first 'disaster' but I'm sorry to disappoint ... there's just not a lot to say except it's bloody brilliant !!

Need More Sun Lotion !

Cant believe this weather - it must be well in the 80s, the wind has gone and I'm in shorts and T-shirt. The miles have been flying by and I#m going to have to slow down or I'll be in Ulmabout a month before Doz, John and Julie arrive. Today, after a really leisurely get up, I tootled 20km down the cycle path to Remagen (they had a bridge here til we blew it up ... whatever I do I mustn't mention Fawty Towers !!) I'ts another of those beautiful little towns - narrow streeets, bars etc (you get the picture ...) so I'm going to have another day here, and go down to Koblenz tomorrow. I here all the flights are still grounded because of this volcano ... glad I'm on a bike !

Well, its taken me a while to get this blog going - but finally I've found one nof these internet cafes that are supposed to be everywhere!
Day One - Was a big day - about 90 km to get through Rotterdam. Got to a place in the middle of nowhere where EVERYTHING was closed cos it was Sunday. The pubs would have been closed too if there had been any pubs - but in Ottoland the Amish are alive and praying.
Day Two -Got a really early start - weather is great (bit nippy but sunshine) did 66km into a bloody strong headwind and arrived near a place called Zaltbommel.
Day Three - Tried to find a place to camp in Nijmegen but had to go about 8km out of town - found a fantastic little place good campsite - free hot showers and a pub and nice restaurant in the village! I'm only 3km away from the German border.
Day Four- Still battling Eastwards against a strong NNE wind. At least it is fine and sunny and it is starting to warm up. There have been some nice towns along the way particularly Kleve and Kalkar
Day Five
Cycled early doors the 45km to Rheinberg and got to the station by 10am. Caught the train to bypass the industrial Duisberg/Dusseldorf area and got into Cologne mid affy. Found a cheap Hotel in the town centre and went out on the razzle (well I had a couple of beers and a Wienerschnizel)
I've taken loads of pics but you`ll have to wait til I get back cos I cant work this computer thingy!

Setting off tomorrow. All the panniers are packed and the bike is ready. A big thanks to everyone who have wished me well, and I hope you'll all follow my progress on this blog.

This Sunday, me Doz, Steph and Shelagh, went off for the day up the canal to Lancaster, then followed the disused railway track down into Glasson dock. Here's Doz and Shelagh just where we got off the canal in Lancaster ... on the lookout for 'Tea and Cakes' .... they live in hope! We went to the pub as usual

Leeds Liverpool canal ride

This is the first 'proper' ride trying out the bike with panniers etc. A few of us are going off for the weekend and stopping overnight in a pub. As well as me and my partner Doreen, there's another couple John and Julie coming with us. They will also be meeting me in Germany and doing a section of the route with me. The other two coming this weekend are Steph and Shelagh. We've had a couple of trips together, but unfortunately they cant make it this year to meet me en-route.

First outing with the new bike

Tried out my new bike last weekend - just a short ride round Rivington and Anglezarke a couple of miles from where I live. It's a great area for cycling if you've never been, with loads of off-road tracks and bridleways. They held all the Commonwealth Games events there so you might have seen it on telly.

Preparing for the trip

Getting ready over the next few weeks for my ride. I'll be cycling from Rotterdam up the Rhine to Mannheim, then following the Nekar past Heidelberg to the watershed. At Donaushingen I'll pick up the Danube and follow it down via Ulm and Regensberg to Passau.